Method of weaving double-faced fabrics.



No. 639,5I8. v Patented 000. I9, I893. J. CALDWELL.

METHOD OF WEAVING DOUBLE FACED FABRICS.

(Application filed Mar. 18, 1897.)

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UNITED STATES PATEN Fries,

JAMES CALDWELL, OF CLINTON, MASSACHUSETTS.

METHOD OF WEAVING DOUBLE-FACED FABRICS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 639,518, dated December19, 1899.

Application filed March 18, 1897- To all whom, it may concern:

Be it known that I, JAMES CALDWELL, of Clinton, county of Worcester,State of Massachusetts, have invented an Irn provem ent in Methods ofWeaving Double-Faced Fabrics, of which the following description, inconnection with the accompanying drawings, is a specification, likeletters and nu merals on the drawings representing like parts.

This invention has for its object a novel method of weaving double-facedfabric made up of block-patterns, my improved method of weavingeffecting a great saving in harnessframes and harnesses and alsoenabling the production of a greater variety of patterns.

My invention has been devised for weaving figures or designs of likeshape at each face of the fabric, said figures or designs diifering incolor or material as the filling is of differing color or material, andin such case one color or material will appear directly opposite theother color or material at the two faces of the fabric.

In my novel method I divide and handle the set of warps used in a novelmanner, and to distinguish one part of the warps from the other partthereof I shall designate one part as the cloth-warp and the other partas the pattern-warp, each part containing substantially one-half of thewhole number of warp-threads used.

The cloth-warps are used to determine the character orstructu re of theface of the fabric and not the figure-as, for instance, if the face isto present a plain weave I control the cloth-warp by two harness-framesor sets of harnesses, and if the face is to show a three, four, or fiveleaf twill I use, then, either three, four, or five harness-frames orsets of harnesses for the cloth-warp. The remaining half or number ofwarp-threads, designated as a pattern-warp, is used for defining thefigure or design of the fabric, and if this figure or design is topresent but two differing blocks, either in color or material, I employfor said pattern-warp but two harness-frames or sets of harnesses, andfor each additional block which is to be displayed in the figure ordesign I use an extra harness-frame or set of harness.

The pattern-warps, the change of position of which defines thenumber ofblocks in the b'erial No. 628,149. (Specimena) figure or design, neverappear at either face of the fabric; but, on the contrary, they alwayslie in a substantially straight line throughout the length of thefabric, and the cloth-warp which appears at both faces of the fabric issomewhat crimped as it is interwoven with the filling. The pattern-warpseparates the two differing fillings one from the other, and saidfilling crossing the pattern-warp at alternate picks is interwovenbetween said pattern-warps with the clothwarp to thus make the clothforming the double face of the fabric.

For weaving two-block patterns in double faced figured fabric presentinga plain woven face, as now commonly practiced, eight harness-frames orsets of harnesses are required, four to manipulate the warp in order topresent one color of filling at the face and four to manipulate the warpto present the other colored filling at the face. In my invention I cando this classof weaving with four harness-frames or sets of harnesses.So, also, in the old system four extra harness-frames or sets of harnessare required for each extra block of the pattern; but in my plan I needadd but one harness-frame or set of harnesses for each extra block. Inlooms now in use employing harness-frames the practical limit is aboutthirtytwo harness-frames, each additional harness-frame increasing thepower required to run the loom, and with thirtytwo harness-frames in theold method with plain woven face not more than an eightblock pattern canbe woven, whereas in my invention I may weave an eight-block patternwith only ten harness-frames or sets of harness, and with thirty-twoharness-frames or sets of harness I may weave a thirty-block pattern,and this may be further extended by the use of a jacquard-machine.

My invention is based on the fact that I divide the warp used, it beingof substantially the same count or diameter, into cloth and patternwarps, as stated, and I manipulate them so that the cloth-warp is alwaysexposed at one or the other face of the fabric at each pick, no matterwhat the pattern or design; but the pattern warp is concealed in thefabric by the filling, the latter warp being preferably kept undergreater tension to thus enable it to lie straight in theinterior of theIDS fabric, it being covered above and below by alternate picks offilling beat in to lie one above the other.

I will hereinafter describe myiuvention in one of its simplest forms,the fabric woven presenting two blocks both longitudinally andlaterally, two differing fillings being employed, the dilference beingin color, and for the production of such a fabric with plain weave Iemploy two harness-frames or sets of harness to receive and shed thecloth-warp and two harness-frames or sets of harness to receive andmanipulate the pattern-warp, one frame for each block.

In the old style of weaving a double-faced fabric having a two-blockplain woven pattern, it requiring eight harness-frames, as hereinbeforestated, all the warp-threads used are read into the harness of all theseharnessframes and all of said warp-threads appear at times atboth facesof the fabricthat is, each warp-thread appears at one or the other faceof the fabric once during each four picks.

Figure 1 shows the drawing-in draft for a two-block pattern. Figs. 2, 3,4, and 5 show consecutive sheds which will be made, presumjng the figureto be only two picks in length of each color of filling. Fig. 6 showsspread out loosely my improved fabric, said figure merely showing thecrossings of the threads. Fig. '7 shows a longitudinal section of theclothyand Fig. 8 shows part of the reading for a four-block pattern.

To m unt the warps for a two-block pattern, I'may place the cloth-warpon one beam andthe pattern-warp on another beam, so that thepattern-warp may be subjected to greater tension in orderthat it mayremain at theinterior of the fabric, letting the looser cloth warp showat both faces of the fabric.

It will be understood that each harnessframe has a number or series ofheddles or harnesses, each having an eye for the receptionof awarp-thread, and the frame constitutes a means for liftingsimultaneously all the harnesses of any one series.

, The drawing-in draft shows four harnessframes which I have numbered 12 3 4 and referring to Fig. 1 I draw the first thread at'the left of thecloth-warp a into a harness of the No. 1 harness-frame, and into aharnessof harness-frame No. 3 Idraw the first thread at the left of thepattern-warp b, and then in harness of the frame No. 2 I draw the secondthread of the cloth-warp, it being marked a, and then in the harness ofbarness-frame N0. 3 I draw the second thread I) of the pattern-warp, andin the drawings, Fig. 1,1 have shown this drawing in repeated once, thisparticular part of the drawing in just described providing for showing ablock or figure in, say, black color at the upper or top side of thefabric and a white block or figure at the under side; but to makealongside of the black block or figure at the top in a line transverseto the width of the fabrica white block or figure and at the opposite orunder side of the fabric a black block or fig ure the drawing in must bechanged as follows,viz: The pattern-warp must be read into harnesses ofthe frame No. 4* instead of N0. 3 and to designate the pattern-warp thusentering the frame No. 4* I have, to better facilitate this description,used the letter I). These two readings will be repeated across the loomaccording to the number of the blocks or figures to appear in any onetransverse line, and the width of the blocks or figures may be varied byincreasing or lessening the number of pattern-warp threads used in eachharness-frame or set of harness. These repeat in each block, and thesize of the blocks in the direction of the length of the fabric may alsobe varied by continuing the white or the black pick on one side for agreater or less number of picks. WVe will suppose that the loom on whichthese warps are mounted contains two shuttle-boxes, one containing, say,a shuttle provided with a black filling and the other a shuttle providedwith a white filling} but it will be understood that any other colorsmay be used and that blockwork may be woven in design by making thefilling of differing material or differing in size;

Before describing the sheds in Figs. 2 to 5 I will say that these shedsare taken. in succession in a part of the fabric wherein black is toappear on top and white opposite it at the bottom, and it will beunderstood that in this particular longitudinal section of the fabricthe harness-frame No. 4 (see left of sectionline as) is withoutpattern-warp threads; but if said section were taken farther to theright in the line :2 where the white block is to appear uppermost andthe black block under it, then the harness-frame No. 4 would beoperative to carry the pattern-warp, as will beobvious from thedrawingin, Fig. 1. Fig. ilshows the harness-frames No. P, No. 2 and No.3 they only being represented for the reasons stated, and said figureshows the cloth-warp u, in the upper plane of the shed, the clothwarp ain the lower plane of the shed,an'd the pattern-warp b in the lowerplane of the shed. In this condition a pick of black fillinge isinserted. At the next shed, Fig. 3, the harness-frame No. 3, containing.the pattern warp b, isput into the upperplane of the shed, and a pick 6of white fillingisinserted, thus putting a black filling onthe top ofand a white filling under the pattern-warp b. (See left of Fig. 7.) Atthe next shed the clothwarps are reversed, as shown in Fig. 4, andv theharness-frame No. 1*, with clothwarp a, is put into the lower plane ofthe shed, and the harness-frame No. 2 with the cloth-warp a, is put intothe upper planeof the shed, crossing the cloth-warps over. and tobindthe two picks of black and white fillingin place, and then with theshed in, this condition the harness-frame No. 3 is moved to put thepattern warp 1) into the lower plane of theshed, and a second pick ofblack filling e is put in,

and in the next shed, without change of the cloth-warp, theharness-frame No. 3 is raised into the upper plane of the shed, and asecond pick of white filling e is inserted below the pattern-warp, thusagain putting a black filling on the top of the pattern-warp and a whitefilling underit, and thereafter the clothwarp is again reversed into theposition Fig. 2, and the sheds are repeated, as described, for as manypicks as may be necessary to give to the black figure or block thedesired length.

To follow this black block with a white block in the length of thegoods, I repeat the sheds shown in Figs. 2 to 5; but in Figs. 2 and 4instead of inserting a black pick I insert a white pick, and in sheds,Figs. 3 and 5, instead of the white picks I insert black.

In Fig. 6 I have shown some cloth and pattern warps with the two-coloredfillings inserted therein, all the threads used being widely separatedto illustrate the weft-crossings; but if the weft or filling should bebeat in, viewing Fig. 6, the black weft or crossing 6 would beat in atthe left, Fig. 6, under the white, and then the white would beat underthe black for a distance.

In the longitudinal section, Fig. 7, I have supposed that the sectioncuts through a black and white block in the length of the fabric. Inthis method of weaving it will be seen that the pattern-warp which doesnot come to and appear at either face of the fabric separates and guidesthe two differing fillings and insures that they when beat into thefabric by the usual reed will lie parallel and one above the other.plainfaced fabric of single thickness to show along opposite faces twodiffering blocks, I use two harness-frames for the cloth-warp, the saidwarp being divided and read equally into the said two harness-frames,and if a two, three, or four block figure is to be made the same numberof pattern-threads, they alternating with the cloth-warp threads, areused; but if a two-block pattern is to be woven the said pattern-warpthreads are read into only the harnesses of two harness-frames-viz. ,thetwo which are to manipulate them; and if a three or four block patternis to be woven the said pattern-warp threadsone-half of the wholenumber--will be read into harnesses of the three or four harness-framesdiagonally from front to back of the frame, as represented in Fig. 7.These four blocks may be shown separately; or they may be combined, twoor more together, to show one mass of color by raising or lowering thesaid harness-frames together.

Referring now specifically to Fig. 8, let it be supposed that theharness-frames No. P, No. 2 No. 3 and No. M are substantially the sameas represented in Fig. 1, and No. 3 harness-frame controls thepattern-warp for one block of one color or material, while theharness-frame No. controls the patternwarp thread for the block ofdiffering color or material, and, asIhave before stated, for bet- In mynew method of weaving.

ter description I designate those warp-threads in harness-frame No. M bythe letters Z). Now Fig. 8 shows two extra harness-frames, No. 5 and No.6 and it will be seen that each one may control the pattern-warp threadsfor a different block, the pattern-warp threads read inharness-frameNo.5 being designated 6 and those in No. 6 harness-frame as11 and if/this four-block pattern is to be woven the reading, as shownin Fig. 8, would be repeated across the loom. It will be obvious thateither No. 5 or No. 6 harness-frame may be raised in unison with orseparately with relation to the harness-frames No. 3 and No. 4 and thatby the different raising and lowering of these frames in the same oropposite directions two or more of them may be made to cooperatetogether and increase the size of the block to be woven-that is, eachharness-frame makes a block of a certain width and in a certain positionacross the fabric from selvage to selvage, and by manipulating theseharness-frames or harnesses controlling the pattern-warps one,tw0,three, or more of them maybe lifted or operated in unison in the samedirection to combine the blocks and Vary the pattern, thus making awider or narrower figure, as may be desired, in any line of picking.

I have hereinbefore stated that a jacquard may be used in the practiceof my new method of weaving, and when it is used I shall read all thepattern-warp threads for each block to be made into a separate series ofharnesses, all of the harnesses of that series being con nected with anyusual jacquard-hook, it taking the place of the harness-frame, so itwill be seen that I have merely to substitute for the frame of theharness-frame, it carrying the harnesses, ajacquard-hook, and somyinvention when applied to the jacquard-hook makes the same saving innumber of books as it does in the number of frames.

In jacquards as now used for weaving double-faced fabric with a plainface eight hooks are used for every two-block pattern, and the hooks andtheir attached harnesses are so moved that each one of the said threadsappears at one or the other face of the fabric at every four picks.

Having described my invention, what I claim as new, and desire to secureby Letters Patent, is-- 1. The herein-described method of weavin g adouble-faced fabric presenting at its opposite faces like patterns orblocks differing in color or materialformed by warp-threads andfilling-threads; which consists in dividing said warp into substantiallytwo parts, one to constitute the cloth and the other the pattern;reading the successive warp-threads of the cloth-warp into successiveharnesses according to the structure of the cloth; reading the remainingor pattern-warp threads successively into as many harnesses as there areblocks in the pattern; separating the cloth warp threads to form a shed;holding said pattern-warp threads between the upper and lower planes ofthe shed; and again inserting in said shed two successive picks offilling differing in color or material and changing some of saidpattern-warp threads between said two successive picks.

2. The herein-described method of weaving a double-faced fabricpresenting at its opposite faces like patterns or blocks differing incolor or material formed by warp-threads and filling-threads, whichconsists in dividing said warp into substantially two parts, one toconstitute the cloth and the other the pattern; reading the successivewarp-threads of the cloth-warp into successive harnesses according tothe structure of the cloth; reading the remaining or pattern-warpthreads successively into as many harnesses as there are blocks in thepattern; separating the cloth-warp threads to form a shed; holding saidshed open for inserting two successive picks of filling differing incolor or material; changing some of the pattern-warp threads inirregular series across the warp between said two successive picks; thenclosing and crossing the cloth-warp threads to form a new shed, holdingsaid new shed open with the patternwarp threads between the upper andlower planes of the shed; again inserting in said shed two successivepicks of filling differing in color or material and changing some ofsaid pattern-warp threads in irregular series across the warp betweensaid twosuccessive picks.

3. The herein-described method of weaving a double-faced fabricpresenting at its opposite faces like patterns orblocks differing incolor or material formed by warp-threads and filling-threads, whichconsists in dividing said warp into substantially two parts; one toconstitute the cloth and the other the pattern; reading the successivewarp-threads of the cloth-warp into successive harnesses according tothe structure of the cloth; reading the remaining or pattern-warpthreads successively into as many harnesses as there are blocks in thepattern; separating the clothwarp threads to form a shed; holding saidshed open for inserting two successive picks of filling differing incolor or material; changing some of the pattern-warp threads betweensaid two successive picks; then closing and crossing the cloth-warpthreads to form anew shed, holding said new shed open with thepattern-warp threads between the upper and lower picks of the shed;again inserting in said sheds two successive picks of fillingdifferingin color or material and changing some of said pattern-warp threadsbetween said two successive picks; repeating the foregoing for anydesired number of; sheds and inserting the filling of the same color ormaterial to show at the same face of the fabric until the block orpattern has been woven for the desired length in the direction of thelength of the fabric; and then repeating the formation of the sheds asbefore stated but reversing the order of inserting the picks of fillingtherein, causing the filling differing in color or material andpreviously showing at but one face of the fabric to be shown at theopposite face of the fabric, and continuing the formation of said shedsas stated inserting the filling differing in color or material in thereversed order for the desired number of sheds according to the lengthdesired, in the direction of the length of the fabric, for the block orfigure of differing color or material. In testimony whereof I havesigned my name to this specification in the presence of two subscribingwitnesses.

JAMES CALDWELL. \Yitnesses:

GEO. W. GREGORY, LAURA MANIX.

